Serves 8
Ingredients
Smoked crème fraîche
225g crème fraîche
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tsp salt
1.36kg applewood chips
1.8kg charcoal (not briquettes)
Everything crumble
450g bread flour
57g sugar
2 tbsp sesame seeds
2 tbsp poppy seeds
1 tbsp salt
283g butter, room temperature
113g dried caramelized onions
Arctic char
7.8g arctic char, filleted, pin bones and skin removed
Salt, to season
237ml extra virgin olive oil
White balsamic pickling liquid
415ml water
415ml white balsamic vinegar
3 tbsp salt
Cucumbers
2 persian cucumbers
5 lemon cucumbers
White balsamic pickling liquid
8 cucamelons (mexican gherkins)
To finish
Extra virgin olive oil
16tsp char roe
16 sprigs bronze fennel
40 sprigs salad burnet
8tbsp freshly grated horseradish
Method
Smoked crème fraîche
In a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, lemon juice, and salt. Transfer to a small pan over ice. Soak the applewood chips in cold water for 5-10 minutes. Line the cooking surface of a large cast-iron skillet with aluminum foil. Place the charcoal in the pan and set over high heat until the coals are white-hot. Remove from the heat. Drain the applewood chips. Place ¾ of the soaked chips on top of the coals and return the skillet to the burner until the chips begin to smoke. Place the skillet in the oven on the lowest rack. Place the bowl of crème fraîche on top of a tray of ice and place in the oven as far away as possible from the skillet. The crème fraîche should stay as cold as possible during the smoking process. Smoke for 2 hours, checking the smoke level every so often; the smoke should be heavy and constant. It may be necessary to add more wood chips. Remove the crème fraîche from the oven and transferto an airtight container or vacuum-seal in a sousvide bag. Keep in the refrigerator for 2-3 days.
Everything crumble
Preheat the oven to 160c. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the flour, sugar, sesame seeds, poppy seeds, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Incorporate the butter, mixing at medium-high speed. Spread the mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Pulse briefly in a food processor until pea-sized. Add the dried caramelised onions.
Arctic char
Place the char in a plastic container. Cover completely with salt and let cure in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly in cold water and pat dry. Preheat the oven to 140f. Place the char in a roasting pan, skin side down, and brush with olive oil. Bake for 15 minutes. Brush with olive oil again and return to the oven for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the fish begins to flake.
White balsamic pickling liquid
In a medium bowl, stir together the water and the vinegar. Add the salt, stirring until it dissolves.
Cucumbers
Cut 1 persian cucumber in half lengthwise and slice on a japanese mandoline into 32mm thick strips. Cut the other in half and slice into rounds. Store in ice water. Cut the lemon cucumbers in wedges and place in a sousvide bag with the pickling liquid. Vacuum-seal. Cut the cucamelons in half, lengthwise, and store in ice water.
To finish
Add 2 tsp smoked crème fraîche on a plate and 1 tbsp of everything crumble between them. Break the arctic char up with a fork and arrange it on and around the crumble. Garnish with the cucumbers, 2 tsp char roe, 2 bronze fennel sprigs, 5 salad burnet leaves, and 1 tbsp grated horseradish. Repeat with the remaining ingredients, to serve 8.
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Photography by Francesco Tonelli