Smoked Bluefish Broth
This is the best argument yet for Brooklyn-Nordic cuisine. Burns marinates smoked bluefish from nearby Acme Smoked Fish (who has been curing and smoking seafood for finicky New Yorkers for over a century,) overnight in a fennel dashi, before applying gentle heat to intensify the infusion into something akin to a fish tea. Slices of mackerel that have been cured “very much like the herring style in Denmark,” says Burns, are set atop a small salad of raw sunchokes and red watercress, dressed with a biting horseradish vinaigrette. Tableside, the “tea” is poured over the mackerel, so jokes Burns, “it’s like soup and salad at the same time.”
Evil Twin The Cowboy
Smoked beers are fairly rare, and often polarizing, but when placed in the right context, irreplaceable. The unusual pilsner, the colour of tarnished brass, echoes the smokiness of the broth, coming up just shy of being too much of a good thing. The beer was originally created by Jeppe Jarnit-Bjergsø, Evil Twin’s owner and mastermind (he also curates the beer selections for Luksus and Tørst) for Aaron Porter of The Trappist bar in Oakland, California (“In fact, he’s the cowboy,” says Pepper).
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