A gastronomic revolution is cooking in the UK! The spread of fine dining is thinning itself throughout the country, with an increasing number of Michelin-starred restaurants opening their doors in sometimes far-flung places. What a delight for UK palate holders. London, naturally, remains the gravitational centre for the industry and sits 5th in the world rankings for the city with the most Michelin-starred restaurants. Remarkably, only two places behind Paris, with Osaka claiming the crown.
But what perhaps gives me further joy is that these restaurants are actually owned and run by British chefs, pioneers in their own rights, who have, in most cases, plied their trades in some of the world’s most prestigious kitchens. This is big for the UK culinary scene and paves the way for a bright and exciting future!
Recently, I had the pleasure of experiencing this gastronomic metamorphosis first-hand as I visited the newly opened Grace & Savour, run by Chef Director David Taylor and his Norwegian wife, Anette.
David’s work epitomises this new phenomenon. His cooking and overall inspiration, he tells me, “Is deeply rooted in classical French cuisine,” featuring rich flavoured sauces, tender, cooked-to-perfection meats and soft stewed legumes. “Yet everything is dished and served through a minimalist scandi lens,” he adds, reflecting on his experience of working under 3-Michelin-star Chef Esben Holmboe Bang from Maaemo. The locally sourced produce, as well as his dexterous hands and extraordinary flair, ensure a strong British influence remains.
Set amongst the grounds of Hampton Manor, once the family home of industrialist Frederick Peel, son of Robert Peel, former Prime Minister and founder of London’s Metropolitan Police, Grace & Savour is the ultimate immersive culinary retreat. It is supplemented by Smoke, a more relaxed environment, helmed by chef Stuart Deeley (a MasterChef: The Professionals winner), and The Bakery, an artisan bakery and coffee shop.
To immerse yourself fully, I recommend overnighting in one of the Garden Suites that offer direct views across the kitchen and sit within the confines of a flowery walled garden. Design-wise, the rooms offer warm, minimalist vibes that feature locally sourced products and natural materials. I’m told by Creative Director Fjona Hill, “The overarching theme is British wood-craftsmanship, ” adding warmth to the room. Expect remarkable and original touches, too, with your typical Nespresso machine substituted by a vintage coffee grinder and speciality coffee beans, which makes for a very fun experience in the morning and a cool feature.
Dinner is served in the main building and kicks off around 7pm, but prior to that, I catch up with David to understand the philosophy behind his cooking and Grace & Savour’s mission statement.
“The supply chain is broken, the state of the soil is desperate, and we have no idea what goes into our food at the best of times,” he impassionately argues, but ironically, this sorry state of affairs feeds his “why”.
Ultimately, “We’re a space for those who wish to leave the planet in a better way than they found it,” he adds. Their pride and joy is the garden, which, despite the capricious weather this year, has managed to produce all manner of produce used each day in the kitchen. The passion and nobleness in David’s voice hit me in the face like an uppercut. I can’t wait to try his food.
Adjacent to the seating area is the kitchen, offering an immersive experience for the diner. David and his team can be seen working away, each team member knowing exactly what needs to be done. It feels like the food equivalent of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, with David conducting with composure, total precision and, of course, grace.
Dinner consists of a dozen or so courses, and a hand-signed Summer Menu is delivered on beautifully coarse paper to help us navigate the journey ahead. Master Farms Jersey Royal potatoes are served with tender Lavington lamb shoulder soaked in a broth of garden-picked salted turnips. Scallop roe and organic fennel come with an emulsion made from the tops of gooseberry, picked in the garden that very day, and lightly decorated with marigolds from Toby.
Courses 6 and 8 are my highlight dishes, however, and both represent an homage to British seafood. Hand-dived scallops by Frazer in Cornwall are delicately served with broad beans from the garden, cucumber, and a chicken and white strawberry broth. Lobster, again from Cornwall, is served with Isle of Wight tomatoes, bronze fennel and a sauce made from the brains of the lobster. This tricky dish to execute includes all parts of the lobster, from the brain and claw down to the tail. The dish is served with tomato-like water, which is produced after the tomatoes and their vines are blended together and sieved for 24 hours, and all the liquid drips through a very fine mesh net. Oxygenated vinegar is added to ethanol and is then rested for 2 weeks before being served with the dish.
As the evening rounds to an end, I can hear my taste buds thanking me for the experience they have just had, and I’m reminded of French writer Jacque Atali, who once described gastronomy as the only art form that can only be appreciated by those who destroy it. In other words, me. Whilst it’s ephemeral, it becomes immortal through the memories and experiences it creates, and a trip to Grace & Savour will permanently sear your mind and taste buds!
To find out more about Grace & Savour and book, visit the links below…
Grace & Savour
Hampton Manor
Shadowbrook Lane
Hampton in Arden
Solihull B92 0EN
United Kingdom
Web: hamptonmanor.com
Online Bookings: bookings.alacer.cloud/hampton-manor/restaurant
Tel: 01675446080
Email: reservations@hamptonmanor.com
Instagram: @hamptonmanor
Facebook: @HamptonManorPeels